TRANSWHEEL CORPORATION SUPPORT Home Page
Transwheel
© 2007, Transwheel Corporation
 
Welcome to the Customer Support Center!   Below you will find our customer support number and times available.
 
Please use the online Inquiry Form for any questions or comments you may have regarding products or services.  A customer service representative or account manager will respond shortly.   Also feel free to read through the following information:
 
When is it safe or unsafe to repair a wheel?
Wheel care guidelines
Glossary of common industry terms

CUSTOMER SUPPORT NUMBERS

   To reach Transwheel Customer Support via phone, call 1 (800) 943-3577

Customer Support Center Hours:

CORPORATE FACILITY (Indiana)
Monday - Friday 7:00AM EST to 6:00PM EST
EAST COAST FACILITY (Maryland)
Monday - Friday 7:00AM EST to 6:00PM EST
SOUTHEAST FACILITY (Florida)
Monday - Friday 7:30AM EST to 6:00PM EST
To assist you in identifying what is and is not safe to repair, we have developed this repair guide. If you still have questions after reviewing it, please contact our Customer Service Department at 1 (800) 943-3577

What is Safe to Repair?
Wheels that are safe to repair often show signs of corrosion/clearcoat peel, curb rash, flange damage, or slightly bent wheels.

Corrosion/Clearcoat Peel
Damage includes problems with the finish on the face of the rim. This can be caused by improper or insufficient clearcoat applications or cracks in the clearcoat. This can lead to moisture beneath the clearcoat.

Curb Rash
Damage includes scratches and gouges on the face or flange of the wheel. This is caused by impact with other cars, curbs, tire tools, and other hard surfaces.

Flange Damage
Damage includes either a crack or void in the wheel's flange area. It is safe to repair wheels where the damage does not exceed the flange radius or bead seat on either inboard or outboard flange areas. This type of damage is typically caused by an impact with potholes, curbs, or another vehicle.

Slightly Bent Wheels
Damage includes bends in the inboard and/or outboard flange area and slight bends in the barrel. This type of damage is caused by impact with a hard surface including curbs, potholes, or another vehicle.


What is Unsafe to Repair?
Wheels that are unsafe to repair have damage in the outer diameter of the wheel, wheel is bent too severely, damage in the lug hole area, or the wheel is bent from center. Because of safety concerns, Transwheel will not repair damage that compromises the structural integrity of the wheel. This includes:

Damage in the Outer Diameter
Damage between the inboard and outboard flanges including cracks and flat spots.

Bent too Severely
Damage includes wheels that have been impacted so severely they cannot be straightened without compromising the structural integrity of the wheel.

Damage in the Lug Hole Area
Damage includes elongated, out-of-round, or cracked lug holes.

Bent from Center
Damage includes wheels that have been impacted so severely that they cannot be straightened without compromising the structural integrity of the wheel. In most cases, the wheels must be spun to assess the damage.

Transwheel reserves the right to refuse to recondition any wheel that is deemed structurally unsound.  This includes and is not limited to a wheel that has been welded, straightened, machined, or any wheel that has been repaired by anyone other than Transwheel Corporation.
PRECAUTIONS
  1. Do not stand the wheels vertically. Wheels in this position can easily tip and damage the face.
  2. When mounting and dismounting tires, avoid contact with metal tools. Contact will almost always damage the face of the wheel.
  3. If at all possible, do not apply clip-on flange balance weights. Damage caused by their use will not be covered by our warranty.
  4. Keep the wheels away from corrosive material, such as brake fluid. Contact can damage the clearcoat finish and void our warranty.
Note:  Damage caused by improper use or installation is not covered by Transwheel's Warranty. Please review all instructions, as well as our warranty before mounting.
Handling & Installation

Please follow the procedures listed below to ensure proper installation
  Note:  It is important that anyone dismounting/mounting tires and wheels be trained in the proper techniques and requirements.
  1. Carefully remove the wheel and other shipping material from the box. (Note any damage to the shipping container.)
  2. Inspect the wheel to ensure the quality of the product. If you have any questions, contact our Customer Service Department at 1 (800) 943-3577 before continuing.
  3. Use only dismount/mounting equipment that will not make contact with the face of the wheel.
  4. Carefully mount the tire following the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations.
  5. When using a leverage type valve tool, protect the cosmetic finish on the face of the wheel.
  6. To ensure proper lug torque, use the recommendations provided in the vehicle owner's manual.
Returns/Exchanges
  1. Contact our Customer Service Department at 1 (800) 943-3577 and explain the reason for the return or exchange.
  2. Request a Return Authorization Number. We will only accept returns with a valid Return Authorization Number.
  3. Carefully repackage the wheel in its original shipping material.
  4. Write the Return Authorization Number on the box.
  5. Return the package to Transwheel.
Note:  A restocking fee and/or other charges may be assessed for wheels returned after 30 days of invoice date or wheels returned in a damaged condition. Charges will be applied for wheels returned under the following circumstances:

      Wheel weights have been attached to the outside face of the wheel
      Wheel has been mounted to the car or tires mounted to the wheel
      Wheel has been damaged by the customer
Wheel Maintenance

The following procedures and precautions will aid in preserving the quality finish of your wheels:
  1. Keep the wheels clean. Use soap and hot water to clean the cosmetic face of the wheel. If using a wheel cleaner, be sure to select one that will not harm the surface of the wheel.
  2. If the protective coating gets chipped or cracked, use a clear fingernail polish to seal the area.
  3. Use a 100% cotton cloth to clean and polish the wheel. Synthetic materials may scratch the coating.
  4. Do not attach wheel weights to the outside face of the wheel.
  5. Avoid car washes that use carbide tipped brushes to clean tires. These may damage the clearcoat.
  6. Periodically clean the backside of the wheel to remove road grime, brake dust and grease.

Acrylic Clearcoat:
A clear top coat that is specified for use on certain wheels.

Aftermarket Wheel:
These are custom wheels that car owners can buy to enhance the look of their vehicles. These are not Original Equipment wheels.

Anodized Wheel:
These wheels have a tinted look, usually gold, but they are not painted. The tint is from a very thin layer of metal that is electrically deposited on the wheel.

As Cast Wheels:
The windows of these wheels are not painted. The aluminum, as it is cast in the mold, is visible under the clear coat.

Back Spacing:
A method used to determine the offset of a wheel. The measurement is taken from the mounting surface of the wheel to the lip on the inner flange. The best way to measure is to put a straight edge across the back flange and use a tape measure to measure the distance to the mounting flange.

Bead Seats:
The area on the outside diameter of the wheel where the tire makes contact and forms a seal. Transwheel does not repair damage between the bead seats.

BFC:
Bent From Center. Usually referred to as Lateral Run Out. This can sometimes be repaired.

Blasting:
One method of removing paint and clearcoat from a wheel.

Blemish:
A finished wheel that has an unrepairable "cosmetic" defect on the face. It may be sold as a "second." They are sometimes called "blems." Cosmetic defects only affect appearance, not the integrity of the wheel.

Bolt Pattern:
The spacing, in inches or millimeters, between the lug holes. On wheels wih four (4), six (6) and eight (8) lug holes, measure the lug holes directly across from each other. On wheels with five (5) lug holes, skip one lug hole.

Brinell
A device used to test the hardness of metal. It is used to help determine structural integrity of a wheel.

BTB:
Bent Too Badly. When the flange of a wheel exceeds the range where it can safely be repaired.

Buffing:
The process of sanding out surface defects in a wheel's clearcoat, and then using a buffing compound to restore the high gloss finish.

Center Cap:
The decorative cap found in the center, or hub of a wheel. It usually snaps in place, but may be bolted on, or held in place by screws.

Chrome Wheels:
These wheels are not painted or polished, but have a thin mirror-like metal (chromium) finish electro-chemically deposited on the surface.

Chrome (Custom):
A wheel that has been chromed by Transwheel. These wheels do not come chromed from the factory as an option.

Chrome (O.E.):
A chromed wheel that is offered from the manufacturer as an option.

Clearcoat:
The high gloss top coat that is applied to a wheel as the final refinishing step. This is a usually a clear polyester powder coating, but may be either acrylic powder or a liquid.

Corrosion:
When aluminum is exposed to moisture, salt and certain chemicals it tends to oxidize. This discoloration is called corrosion, and is commonly found on wheels when the clearcoat fails or is damaged due to improper wheel weight installation or road damage.

Cosmetic Damage:
Damage that affects the appearance of the wheel, but not the structural integrity of the wheel.

Deburring:
After machining, the windows of the wheel may have sharp edges, or burrs. These sharp edges need to be removed before clearcoating to prevent corrosion. The process of removing sharp edges is called deburring.

Directional Wheels:
These wheels have a pattern, usually spokes, that are oriented toward a specific direction. Because of this, wheels that mount on the left side of a car would appear backwards when mounted on the right side, and vice versa. These wheels are designated with either (R) or (L). Note: tires can also be directional.

Drop Well:
The area located on the O.D. of the wheel that is designed to allow the tire to be mounted with greater ease.

Face:
The outside part of a wheel. The area that is visible when mounted on a car.

Flange:
The vertical edge, as positioned on the vehicle, that the tire is seated against and allows the tire to be firmly held on the wheel. The outboard flange is on the face of the wheel. The inboard flange is opposite the face.

Flange Cut:
This is a wheel that is machined on the flange area only. The rest of the face is usually painted.

Gold Tint:
A gold tinted topcoat used on some wheels instead of the regular transparent clearcoat.

Hand Painting:
Accent painting that is applied to the wheel.

Hub:
This is the center area of the wheel. The lug holes are located in the hub area.

ID:
Inside Diameter. The inner circumference of the barrel of the wheel.

Inserts:
Splined, steel inserts that are pressed into the lug holes of some aluminum wheels to form the surface the lug nuts are tightened onto according to proper torque specifications.

Lip:
The outermost edge of the flange. Usually the wheel weights are attached at this point. Transwheel does not recommend putting any type of wheel weight on the face of the wheel. This will void Transwheel's warranty

Lip Cut:
These are wheels that have only the lip machined. The rest of the wheel is painted.

Lug Holes:
These are the holes in the hub area where the lug studs pass through the wheel. Lug holes can sometimes get elongated from improper lug tightening procedures and incorrect torque specifications. Elongated lug holes cannot be repaired.

Lug Nuts:
These are heavy threaded nuts that screw on the lug studs, fastening the wheel to the vehicle. Use the Torque specifications listed for your vehicle.

LKQ (Like Kind Quality):
These wheels are considered used and have varying degrees of cosmetic damage, typically have some road miles.

Mag Wheels:
Alloy wheels with a high magnesium content. Generally lighter than standard aluminum alloy wheels.

Matte Finish:
A low gloss, or dull, clear top coat found on some wheels.

Mottling:
This is a casting defect that is sometimes found in the metal of aluminum wheels. When machined, wheels with mottling will exhibit a blotchy look, similar to water spots, on the surface.

Mounting Surface:
This is the flat surface on the back side of the wheel. This surface mounts to the hub of the car.

OD:
Outside Diameter. The outer circumference of the barrel of the wheel.

O.E.M.:
Original Equipment Manufacturer. Typically used to describe parts of a vehicle that were originally designed for the car.

Offset:
A measurement often used to distinguish wheels of similar design. It is the distance from the center line of the wheel to the mounting surface on the inside of the hub. A positive offset has the mounting surface outside the center line, and a negative offset has the mounting surface inside the center line.

Polished Wheels:
These wheels have areas that are polished to a high luster before being clearcoated. Similar to, but not as bright as, a chromed wheel.

Porosity:
This is a casting defect where small pockets of air are trapped in the aluminum as it cools. The machining process can open up these voids, resulting in bubbles in the clearcoat. There is no way to correct this condition if it is found in a wheel. Porosity only affects the appearance of the wheel, not the integrity.

Powder Coating:
A method of coating wheels by applying powdered paint. The powder melts out to form a film and is baked to a very durable finish. Most of the metallic base coats we apply are powder coatings, and most of our wheels are top coated with a clear powder coating.

Rivets:
Inserts found on the face of a wheel, they are usually made of either plastic or aluminum. Rivets are generally decorative, and not functional, on one-piece wheels. However, some two-piece and three-piece wheels are held together by rivets.

Runout (R/O):
The degree to which a wheel is out of round as measured with a dial indicator placed on the OD.

Service Wheels:
Wheels manufactured by the OEMs that are sold as replacements.

Smoke Tint:
A charcoal tinted topcoat that is used on some wheels instead of the regular transparent clearcoat.

Spokes:
Common structural feature of aluminum wheels. Spokes radiate outward from the hub to the flange and may be straight, or curved in either direction. The number of spokes is often used to identify a wheel.

Stickers:
Decorative decals that are placed on the face of a wheel before clearcoating.

Structural Damage:
This type of damage may affect the integrity of a wheel, and therefore, is not repaired by Transwheel. Generally, damage between the bead seats, or damage to the hub and lug hole areas is considered structural.

Take Offs:
OEM wheels that are removed from a car in favor of aftermarket, or other OEM style wheels. These wheels typically have very little damage, if any, and have little or no miles on them. (See LKQ wheels)

Texture:
This is the rough surface found on the face or in the window of a wheel.

Twenty-four Hour Turnaround:
TRANSWHEEL Corporation's policy of receiving a customer's wheel for restoration one day, and shipping the wheel back the next day.

Two and Three Piece Wheels:
Wheels that are fabricated from two or three separate pieces, rather than being cast as one unit. The flanges of these wheels are often thinner, and easily bent.

Valve Stem:
This is the valve that is inserted through the wall of the rim and used to inflate the tire. The valve stem hole is the hole the valve passes through.

Weld Blush:
Commonly known as weld marks or shadowing. This is the discoloration that sometimes occurs when a wheel is welded. It is caused by a slight difference in the composition of the two alloys.

Window:
The pattern of open spaces found in the structure of a wheel. (Not lug holes). The windows of most wheels are painted before machining.

Wheel Cover:
Decorative hub cap. Usually found on steel wheels.

Wheel Weights:
These are lead weights attached to the inboard and outboard flanges of a wheel to bring the wheel and tire into balance. TWC recommends stick-on, rather than clip-on weights, since these do not promote corrosion on the wheel.

Zyglo:
A dye penetrant that glows under UV light. It can be used to find cracks in aluminum wheels.